But once cured, mechanical removal is best. While it is easy to remove unwanted PU foam that is still wet, it can be somewhat difficult to remove when it dries up because it becomes hard and unmanageable. A process for dissolve rigid polyurethane foam, comprising the step of contacting rigid polyurethane foam with 1,2-dimethyl imidazole for a period of time sufficient to dissolve substantially all of the rigid polyurethane foam. Unfortunately, these products don't have any effect on cured foam. Since it was flexible urethane it didn't work perfectly but I would expect it to work better on your rigid foam. Once it cures, you'll have to scrape or sand off unwanted foam. The propellant gas used to dispense the foam (methylene-diphenyl-diisocyanate 4,4) is highly flammable. Your only option for a non-conductive mast is heavy-walled fiberglass tube. I'm contemplating using an expanding foam to add some rigidity to a thin walled cylinder whilst giving a finishing cut. Assuming of course you are looking for something non-conductive. However with TEDGAR-PUR you can dissolve the cured foam and make it easier to remove from the area. It's very easy to use and very good at its job, but as the foam expands it tends to leak and can create lumps or marks on walls. A non-cured material will usually wear off in time, depending upon your wall surface. If the foam has cured, scrape it off with a stiff-bristled brush or any other rough brush. You could choose to leave it as it is and allow it to naturally remove itself. The polyurethane foams will dissolve with acetone before they've cured. The gas is emitted from the foam as it expands and dries out. Once fully cured this foam can be laminated over with any type of polyester, epoxy or vinyl ester resin without melting. Check whether the foam insulation has cured or dried. If your just looking for an easy to acquire or cheap alternative, by the time you spend money on the PVC and and the correct expanding foam you've spent about the same. This is the best way to remove it and will not damage the material. Burning will work, but the fumes aren't good for you. 1. The densities shown refer to the weight per cubic foot of expanded foam (12" x 12" x 12"). 2. Expanding carpet foam will dry, or cure, and harden within 1 to 8 hours after it is exposed to the air depending on the brand and atmospheric conditions. This two part liquid, expanding rigid urethane foam is a closed cell, pourable foam, which will resist the absorption of water. Scrape With Rough Brushes. The process of claim 1, in which the polyurethane foam is a cured rigid polyether-based polyurethane foam. The plant where I worked molded polyurethane foam seat cushions. Mark Rand RTFM Polyurethane foam is an extremely versatile material that has many uses. Acetone is a solvent that dissolves uncured polyurethane foam and can be used to clean up foam before it cures. Yes, the easiest way to remove it is to buy some upvc solvent cleaner which can be bought from most hardware shops and some tissue. 2. 3. Expanding foam is applicable in many aspects of do-it-yourself home improvement, from fixing cracks in walls to insulation. Acetone-based nail polish remover will also work to remove uncured foam. Expanding foam, also known as spray foam as it sprayed onto surfaces using an aerosol can or gun, is a polyurethane-based material often used as an insulator or foundation filler, but it can also be used for a variety of DIY and art projects. To reclaim frames from some of the scrapped parts we used a pressure washer and blasted most of the foam off. What does it do? 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